The watch and its functions
- Quartz: Electronic movement powered by a battery.
- Manual winding (mechanical movement): A movement that gains power by winding the crown (energy generated by manual winding) and stores it in a mainspring barrel. The energy is regulated by the escapement and transferred to the hands. The watch consists only of mechanical parts.
- Automatic: Similar to the mechanical movement, the automatic movement functions without electronic parts and also gains energy by winding the crown. In addition to manual winding, the machine has a rotor (oscillating weight) that turns while you move, thus winding the watch. The watch consists only of mechanical parts.
Pin buckle: Same system as belt buckles. Bracket with a movable pin that is inserted into the punched holes of the watch strap.
Deployant buckle: Nickname for clasps that can be folded.
Folding clasp: Metal handle that can only be opened on one side. Various variation possibilities for the pushers. (With on both sides, only on one side or no handles)
Butterfly folding clasp: It has two metal clasps which open to the left and right. Various variation possibilities for the pushers.
Safety folding clasp: Simple metal shackle which can only be opened on one side, but additionally with a safety shackle which prevents the lock from opening automatically. Various variation possibilities for the lever handles.
If a glass breaks, we recommend that you contact a watchmaker immediately and have the watch overhauled and cleaned to prevent damage to the movement.
- Plexiglas (acrylic glass, Hesalit glass): Light, relatively impact-resistant plastic glass, scratches can easily be polished out. Not refined Plexiglas is not very scratch resistant and can turn yellow.
- Mineral glass: Untreated, it is nothing more than window glass, which is very closely related to quartz family (gemstones). Finished mineral glass is more scratch-resistant and harder than untreated glass. It is also more scratch-resistant than Plexiglas and does not yellow. However, it can break in the event of a careless impact, which can cause fine glass splinters to enter the factory.
- Sapphire glass: The highest quality glass available for your watch. A disc cut from synthetic corundum (name of the sapphire family). Corundum is the hardest material, just after diamonds, and is therefore particularly scratch-resistant and resistant. The strong refraction of the light causes unfavourable reflections on the glass, which are countered by special coatings. The sapphire glasses treated with this material are called anti-reflective sapphire glasses.
The crown is used to regulate the watch, in mechanical and automatic movements it is used to wind the spring in the mainspring barrel and thus give the movement drive.
The crowns have 2 or 3 positions, depending on the watch. For watches with only 2 positions, the function of the second position is lost.
1 Position = Close to the case, if the crown is not screwed and the movement is automatic or mechanical, the watch can be wound by turning the crown. You wind the watch by turning the crown up and down. For automatic watches, we recommend 30 to 40 times turning the crown up and down, and for mechanical watches we recommend winding it up to a slightly noticeable stop. ATTENTION Please do not wind mechanical watches violently beyond the stop, otherwise the watch will suffer damage that is not covered by the warranty.
2 Position = Somewhat pulled out, in this position the date and various other functions are usually adjusted, please observe the enclosed instructions for use of the watch. ATTENTION Please never change the date when the hands are between 8 and 3 o'clock, otherwise the movement will suffer damage not covered by the warranty.
3 Position = Fully extended, in this position the time is generally adjusted. ATTENTION to avoid damage to the movement, please always set the time clockwise. Damage caused by incorrect handling of the watch is not covered by the warranty.
- Crown for pressing: Most watches are equipped with crowns that are designed to press against the case. These crowns are easy to pull out and push back.
- Screw-down crown: Some special watches with high water resistance have screw-down crowns. Such crowns must be screwed on before adjusting and winding the crown. The first position can only be found in this position after the crown has been wound. ATTENTION Please tighten the crown after each use, otherwise the watch will not be water resistant. Damage caused by this is not covered by the warranty.
The table below shows what the ATMs mean.
|3 = 30m
|3 Bar /ATM
|5 = 50m
|5 Bar /ATM
|10 = 10m
|10 Bar /ATM
|20 und mehr = ab 200m
|20 Bar /ATM und mehr